Tuesday, January 28, 2020

POETRY IN STONES : HALEBIDU , KARNATAKA


HOYSALESHWARA TWIN TEMPLE
The twin temples of Halebidu  are believed to be dedicated to Hoysaleswara and Santaleswara Shiva lingas. This is the Entry Gate for Santaleswara Temple 
Vesara Style of Architecture: North Indian ( Nagara)
and South ( Dravida ) Indian Temple Architecture 
Hoysaleswara Temple is a temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and is located in Halebidu in Karnataka.  The Hoysaleswara temple is located at a distance of 150 kms from Mysore in Hassan. The construction of the temple began in the 12th century by the King of Hoysala. This temple was looted  in the 14th century and it fell into ruins after that. This temple is at a distance of 16 kms from Chennakesava Temple ,Belur.
Our Hoysala  Temple Visit

I visited this temple twice. During second visit I found it much more interesting. 

It is known that this famous temple derived its name from the King Vishnuvardhana Hoysaleswara, who built the temple. A large amount of contribution was received from the Shaivas for the construction of the temple. It was built to compete with the Chennakesava temple which was under construction as a Vaishnava temple. Star shaped temple platforms and fine intricate carvings on the outer walls are the main characteristics of the architecture. The Hoysaleswara Temple is surrounded by ponds, mantapas and lakes. It is well known for the sculptures and architecture of Hoysala period.

The temple has exclusive carvings and has a plan with two shrines, one for the King and one for the queen. It has about thousand figures on the walls which depict scenes of Mahabharata and Ramayana. It reflects the Hoysala architecture and was built in soapstone. The outer walls of this temple have intricate carvings and the temple has been described as an outstanding example of Hindu architecture.
The temple has four porches for entry and the main shrine faces on the east. There are exquisite sculptures and paintings inside the temple. There is an image of a dancing Ganesha at the entrance of the temple. There are more than 240 images in the temple and no other temple has these many intricate sculptures. The most interesting part of the temple is the Garuda Sthamba, which is a rare pillar that depicts the history of the bodyguards that lived with the Kings in olden days. These bodyguards committed suicide on the death of their master and this pillar pays homage to a bodyguard named Kuruva Lakshma who killed himself after the death of his master. The event is narrated in detail on the pillar. This temple has been listed as a heritage site by the UNESCO.
The concept of Twin Temples
The Halebidu temple is actually a twin temple. A twin temple consists of two shrines and two superspectrums. And these two are connected with each other. Furthermore, Each one of the temples contains a Shiv linga.
The interiors of the Halebidu temple are as beautiful as the outer walls. There are 4 entrances to each of the temple shrine. And the doors also had two doorkeepers statues on either side. While one of the doorkeeper statue is intact. But, some are damaged and one is completely missing. Across the north and south entrance, pillars run on either side in parallel inside the temple. Most of these pillars are also plain. And so are the walls. Particularly when compared to outside walls. But the four pillars right in front of the shrine have carvings on top of them.

There are very intricate carvings on all the walls of the temple. Most of these depict the lifestyle from the 12th century. And legends from the epics like Ramayana and Mahabharta are also carved on the temple walls. Overall, the temple is made of soapstone (metamorphic rock). Alongside the intricate carvings and depictions of legends, the temple is also rich in iconography and inscriptions in both North Indian and South Indian scripts.

WAR SCENE FROM MAHABHARTA : ABHIMANYU breaking Chakravyuha 
BHIMA Fighting the war . So many Elephants and soldiers  are killed by Bhima .
We see following stories carved in stone :
* Reclining Vishnu with all gods and goddesses 
* Prahlada-Hiranyakasipu-Narasimha legend from the Bhagavata Purana
* Mohini as Bhairavi with Bhairava
* Rama fighting Ravana from the Ramayana
* Indra seated; Brahma with Saraswati
* Karna-Arjuna and Bhima-Dushasasna legends from the Mahabharata
* Umamaheshvara and  Ganesha
*A kissing scene between a man and woman ,musicians, dancers
* Mohini stories; more courtship and kissing scenes
* Kali Shakti legends
* Arjuna legends
On the south-west outer wall of the northern Shiva temple we see standing images of:
* Brahma, Shiva, Vishnu 
* Durga, Saraswati, Kama and Rati, Parvati, Indrakila legend
* Parvati doing yoga; Shiva is infatuated by Mohini 
* Ramayana stories including the golden deer, the first meeting with Hanuman and Sugriva, Rama shooting an arrow through seven palms, Hanuman giving Rama's ring to Sita
* Mohini legends; reclining Vishnu on Sesha giving birth to the cosmic cycle; Vamana legend; avatars of Vishnu; Shiva and Ganesha dancing together; twelve Adityas from the Vedas; Arjuna-Bhisma legends; Shiva and Vishnu's female avatar Mohini dancing together
• On the north-west outer wall of the northern Shiva temple you will notice :
* Nataraja in Tandava dance; Durga and the Saptamatrika; legends of Abhimanyu, Drona, Krishna with Arjuna in Mahabharata; Nataraja; eight forms of Rudra; Mohini dancing; Bharavi; Sarasvati dancing, Shiva and Ganesha dancing, Angry Narasimha, various forms of Vishnu, Dancing Ganesha with Gajasuramardana Shiva; Kartikeya; * * Parvati; dancers and musicians.
* Harihara (left half Shiva, right Vishnu) 


SIVA PARVATI

A close view of the detailing on the exterior of the temple which showcases warriors, mythical characters 

RAVANA lifting Kailasa : Siva Parvati on Kailasa 

In terms of theology from different Hindu traditions, the large images are seen on the outer walls of the west side:
         * Shiva: as Umamahesvara , as Nataraja and destroyer of various demons , 
         * Dakshinamurti , as nude Bhairava 
         * Shakti: as Parvati forms of Durga, Mahishasuramardini, Kali and Vishnu: seated or standing ,Krishna as Venogopala ,Varaha ,Narasimha ,Vamana ,Trivikrama
·  Harihara (half Vishnu, Half Shiva)
·  Ganesha:
·  Kartikeya: on peacock ,under seven-hooded serpent
·  Brahma
·  Saraswati: seated or standing
·  Vedic deities: Indra, Surya and others
·  Others: Vishnu in his female avatar Mohini clothed and nude, Shiva with Mohini, Arjuna and others

Lord Ganesha
Ganesha and other Deities 



Carvings on the Halebidu temple wall
The outer walls of the Halebidu temple have very intrinsic carvings. The lowest layers consist of animal figurines like elephants, horses, lions etc. Then they are followed by miniature carvings of dancers, friezes narrating legends from the Hindu texts, makaras, peacocks. Thereafter, one can see the depictions of daily life of people in the next few layers of carving, including festivals. Also, ceremonies, mythical creatures, people standing and sitting etc are depicted in this layer. Then one can see different carvings depicting artha, kama, dharma scenes including courtship and  eroticism. Thereafter there are large panels with bigger figurines depicting the deities of Hindu culture, and the mythical scenes from different epic stories.
One can see scenes like Durga killing a buffaloo. Or, Rama and his brothers going on an exile. And also Arjuna and Krishna episodes from Mahabharata and several other scenes. It requires  sufficient time when we visit here and have a look at the carvings. Local guides will explain you in detail. 
Bramha , Vishnu, Mahesha and Siva Parwati

Hindu Gods and Goddesses 

OUTER WALL : DIFFERENT LAYERS OF CARVING 


NARSINHA 
This is Hoysaleswara ShivLinga ( For KING ) . Next to this is Santaleswara Shivinga ( For Queen )
The twin temples of Halebidu are believed to be dedicated to Hoysaleswara and Santaleswara Shiva lingas. These shiv lingas are named as Hoysaleshwara and Shantaleshwara .They are both equal and joined at their transept. It is said that while the king offered prayers to the masculine form and  the queen worshipped the feminine one. Outside each of the twin temples, there is a Nandi shrine.

Two Garbha Griha 
Sanctum
The twin-temple has two sanctums (garbha griha), both with Shiva linga. One sanctum is dedicated to "Hoysaleswara" Shiva (the king) and the other for "Shantaleswara" Shiva (the queen, Shantala). Both are of equal size.The two sanctums are next to each other in a north-south alignment, both face east, and each have in front a mandapa .The temple was built with chloritic schist, more commonly known as soapstone. The soapstone is soft when quarried and easier to carve into intricate shapes, but hardens over time when exposed to air.
The Nandi, sacred Bull of Siva is carved out of a single monolithic rock. This Nandi is bigger than the other Nandi in front of  Shantaleshwara Linga

With a huge statue of the Nandi facing the Shivlinga in the respective temple that it faces, one has to climb down the stairs of the main temple with the ShivLinga and  then climb up the stairs of the Nandi shrine to visit it. 

MADANIKA on Column bracket 
CEILING OF THE TEMPLE : Beautiful carvings


The four pillars in front of each shrine are the most ornate and the only ones that have the Madanika sculptures in their pillar brackets. We see Pillar and ceiling carvings with a damaged Madanakai. 
Madanakai 
Madanakai
In the central navaranga of each temple's mandapa are four pillars and a raised ceiling that is intricately carved. Each of the four pillars of this central Navaranga had four standing madanakai (Salabhanjika, mostly female) figures. 

THESE DANCERS ARE ON THE BRACKET INSIDE MANDAPA  

The profusely carved doorway leading to the main hall is flanked by Dwarapalas.
Devrapalas :A better preserved dvarapala at mantapa entrance (hands broken).
Southern entrance: six feet high dvarapalas wearing jewelry on both sides of the doorway. Each has four hands (two broken, others damaged), wear jatamakuta, have third eye and fangs, and stand in S-shaped tribhanga pose. They hold Shiva icons such as damaru, cobra, trisula and others. They were defaced at some point. Attempts were made in the 20th century to trim, restore and re-polish the dvarapala faces, but it created a disproportionate artificial look. Above the door lintel, there is artwork showing a Nataraja (Tandava) along with Nandi, other dancers and musicians.

VISHNU 

Narasimha, Saraswati, Brahma, Ganesha, Parvati and Shiva, Shiva and Parvati, Bhairava, Indrani, Keshava, Surya and are carved in bigger size on outer walls .

Saraswati and Ganesha 

The walls on the other side have more large images.About 340 large reliefs depict the Hindu theology and associated legends. Numerous smaller friezes narrate Hindu texts such as the Ramayana, the Mahabharata and the Bhagavata Purana. Some friezes below large reliefs portray its narrative episodes.

VARAH Avatar : Vishnu 
OUTER WALLS 
Artwork on the outer walls of the temple are in bands. 1: marching playful elephants; 2: lions; 3: thin miniature scroll; 4: horsemen in different postures; 5: thin miniature scroll; 6: friezes narrating legends from the Hindu texts; 7: makaras; 8: hamsa and peacocks; 9: professionals, daily life of people alternately standing and sitting; 10: mythical creatures, festivals, ceremonies; 11: artha, kama, dharma scenes including courtship and mithuna (eroticism, sex), various occupations, some mythical scenes; 12: large image panels (deities, spiritual stories from Hindu texts).

The temple outer walls is intricately carved. Its lowest layers consist of bands with friezes that consist of (from bottom to top) elephants, lions, scrolls with nature and miniature dancers, horses, scrolls, scenes from Hindu texts, mythical beasts (makara) and swans.

The artists "captured the Ramayana and the Mahabharata, and the main episodes of the Bhagavata". The temple's outer wall is a pictorial narration of Hindu epics, and its middle portion has large panels where "the entire pantheon of Hindu divinities are presented, it is a manual of Hindu iconography".

The friezes and wall images on the outer wall predominantly narrate the Ramayana, the Mahabharata, the Bhagavata Purana, the other major Shaiva and Vaishnava Puranas.

You will see carvings  Bhairava, Bharavi, Samudra manthan, musicians with 12th century musical instruments, Sukracharya, Kacha-Devayani legend, Lakshmi, Umamahesvara, Vamana-Bali-Trivikrama legend, Indra legend, Virabhadra, Shiva in yoga.

Mahabharata in Stone 
THIS IS MAHABHARATA IN STONE. JUST BEAUTIFUL !  
Mahabharata stories are carved in detail . Krishna's lila from Bhagavata, Vasudeva in prison followed by carrying newborn Krishna across Yamuna legend, Krishna slaying Putani and other asuri, Krishna stealing butter, Krishna playing flute with humans and animals dancing, Krishna and Pradyumna legend, Krishna lifts the goverdhana, Yudhisthira and Sakuni playing dice, Kichaka molests Draupadi and Bhima meets Kichaka dressed up as a woman to return justice.

On the south-east outer wall of the southern Shiva temple, we see carvings of  Bhisma parva and Drona parva of the Mahabharata; Vishnu standing, dancers and musicians celebrating the victory of Arjuna over Drona. Similarly ,on the south-west outer wall of the southern Shiva temple we see carvings of  Arjuna with Krishna episodes in the Mahabharata; dancers festively celebrating the victory of Pandavas;

Mohini legends in the Vedas is carved beautifully .  Dakshinamurti, Uma -Khesvara, Tandavesvara, Vishnu; Arjuna meets Shiva legends; Aranya parva are depicted beautifully. 

Lord Krishna 
Krishna lifting Govardhan Mountain 




Varaha killing Hiranyakasha 


NARSHIHA 
Vamanavatar 










Overall the Halebidu temple is considered a marvellous and outstanding example of the rich Hindu architecture. The kind of labor that has been put to build this temple is amazing and  the kind of intricate work that is depicted in this temple is believed to surpass any form of Gothic art.
The Hoysala Empire and its capital Dvarasamudra was invaded, plundered and destroyed in early 14th century by the Delhi Sultanate armies of Alauddin Khilji.  Belur and Halebidu  was the target of plunder and destruction in 1326 CE by another Delhi Sultanate army of Sultan Muhammad bin Tughlaq.
The most repeated names of artists found at the Hoysaleswara temple include Manibalaki, Mabala, Ballana, Bochana, Ketana, Bama, Balaki and Revoja.

SRIKRISHNA 
Gaja Charamambaradhara : Lord Siva wearing elephant's skin 

According to the 19th-century art critic James Fergusson, it is a "marvellous exhibition of human labor to be found even in the east and surpasses anything in Gothic art". The temple of Halebidu, has been described by Percy Brown as an "outstanding example of Hindu architecture" and as the "supreme climax of Indian architecture".
THIS IS A POETRY IN STONE. THIS IS  AN EXPRESSION OF  INDIAN  RELIGION  AND CULTURE IN ART FORM. 



Sunday, January 26, 2020

Chennakesava Temple, Belur

Chennakesava Temple, Belur- A 900-Year-Old Wonder  
CHENNAKESAVA TEMPLE, BELUR
Recently, I visited  the Chennakesava temple  it completely mesmerized me with its amazing sculptures and intricate artistic galore. It is amazing artistry of the Drawidians.

Chenna means beautiful while Kesava refers to Lord Vishnu. Thus, the name – Handsome Vishnu. This temple is dedicated to the deity Vishnu.  It took over 100 years for the temple to be finished. This Temple construction was started by  the Hoysala King Vishnuvardhana and completed by his grandson. The town of Belur is home to one of the grandest examples of Hoysala architecture. The Chennakesava Temple was built in the early 12th century.One can see  the intricate works of art and sculpture and feel the old-world spiritual charm of the site.The king had fought wars with the Western Chalukyas and had also defeated the Cholas. The temple was built after the land’s best architects and artists were recruited and engaged in producing new designs and styles that would be the hallmark of the complex.
Garuda Dhwaja Stambha is a holy flag pole dedicated to Garuda , the eagle bird who is the celestial vehicle of Lord Vishnu. The Stambha is 22 Feet high .
Garuda Deva 
Mounted on a star-shaped platform is a huge 42m high pillar or lamp post. This is right in the middle of the temple courtyard and the most amazing thing about this is – the pillar stands on its own! It does not have a foundation below it and since, it stands erect on its own weight, it is called as the gravity pillar.
Attractions in the temple complex include two ornate pillars, one of the Garuda and one with a lamp. The former was built during the Vijaynagar period and the latter is attributed to the Hoysala period.On the right of the temple is the Kappe Channigraya temple and a smaller temple dedicated to a Lakshmi reincarnation, the goddess Sowmyanayaki, sits slightly behind the two. On the left of the Chennakeshava temple, one can find the Ranganayaki temple.
As one enters this vast complex, a large rajagopura or gate arches above. The centre-piece the temple sits in the centre, facing the east, following the most followed orientation of temple architecture.
One can see the intricate works of art and sculpture on the MAHADWARA the main Entrance Gate of the temple. Ornate sanctum door.
On the right of the temple is the Kappe Channigraya temple and a smaller temple dedicated to a Lakshmi reincarnation, the goddess Sowmyanayaki, sits slightly behind the two. On the left of the Chennakeshava temple, one can find the Ranganayaki temple.


Queen Shantala of Hoysala wa the soul inspiration behind many carvings of beautiful women in and around Temple complex


Hoysala emblem 
Raja Lanchana : Royal Emblem of Hoysala
This sculpture of a young boy with furious lion on either side of the door at Belur is indeed the most historical statue as it represents the royal emblem of Hoysala dynasty.
HOY -SALA Emblem
Sudattamuni was a Rushi who was teaching number of students in his Gurukula. One day a furious lion entered the Gurukula and started attacking his pupils. There was a young student named 'Sala' who walked confidently towards the furious lion and  had a fight with it. Teacher threw a weapon to Sala shouting " HOY - SALA" which means " Kill the animal".  Sala fought with lion and killed it. This boy became the King . Hence his kingdom is known as Hoysala. 

Built with soapstone. On outside wall , there are beautiful carvings. At its highest, the temple stands 37 metres tall. Its outer walls are adorned with finely done artwork, with dancing girls in various postures. There are about 38 bracket figures ( Shila Balika ) outside the temple. Queen Shantala of Hoysala dynasty was the soul inspiration behind many carvings of beautiful ladies in and around the temple complex.
Madanika 
There were originally 40 madanakai, of which 38 have survived in damaged or good form. Two of these are Durga, three huntresses (with bow), others are dancers in Natya Shastraabhinaya mudra (acting posture), musicians, women dressing or doing make up, a woman with a pet parrot, men making music.A majority of these madanakai figures are also carved into miniatures in the sixth band of the outer wall around the pradakshina patha.
Madanikas 
One can see several dancing nymphs carved onto brackets on the wall. The madanikasor nymphs are said to have been modeled after the beautiful Queen Shantala, wife of King Vishnuvardhana. The most popular amongst these is the Darpan Sundari(Girl looking into the mirror). 
The madanikas are in different poses and some of the popular ones which gain the attraction of tourists and art enthusiasts include the lady with a parrot and the huntress.
There are a total of 42 bracket figures in the entire belur complex . This indicates how these brackets on the top of wall are designed.



OUTER WALL WITH BEAUTIFUL CARVING
Ravana , ten headed demon king lifting Mount Kailas is seen in this carving. Lord Shiva and Parvati are also seen on Nandi.
DIFFERENT FORMS OF VISHNU

One can  study the details of the wall sculptures at the Temple and will find many references and depictions of important events from the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. 
WAR IS DEPICTED . A Warrior is looking through a instrument which looks like Telescope 
A careful observation would reveal subtle pieces of eroticism hidden amidst the detailed depictions. Animals that commonly feature in the wall sculptures include horses, elephants and lions.
THIS IS HOW PICTURE OF  WAR IS CARVED. YOU CAN SEE ROCKET LIKE WEAPONS . 

Narasinha Pillar
A point to note here is that the entire temple is made using “soap stone” and not metal. 
After  you enter the temple, the one thing that will amaze you are the numerous pillars of various designs. Most popular and intrinsic in terms of art, is the Narasimha Pillar. Easily identifiable with the red vermilion marks made by the devotees, this pillar is covered with miniature figures all over. It is said that the pillar has ball bearings on the top and could be rotated in its hay-days. 
NARSIMHA PILLAR 
The pillars of the temple exhibit some of the best details and finishing of sculpture and art work in the entire complex. The Narasimha pillar is one of the most popular of these temple pillars. There are a total of 48 pillars, all uniquely carved and decorated. The four central pillars were hand chiselled by artisans and feature madanikas or celestial damsels.

Ceiling of Temple 
BEAUTIFUL CEILING : NARASINHA CARVED IN THE CENTRE 
After entering  the main temple, things are much different and very beautiful . Each pillar is differently carved and ceiling is just beautiful and marvellous piece of art work.
The inside of the temple is quite dark and yet the black interiors gleam with the reflection of the little light that is there. 
Statue Of Mohini
MOHINI : Avatar of VISHNU This is the most notable idol.
Mohini is the female Avatar of Lord Vishnu. The fine details of Mohini’s statue and the glistening black stone makes it stand out among the rest of the architecture. On opposite side you see the Vishnu pillar which is equally amazing. Both these pillars are on either sides of the inner sanctum and cannot be missed.
Vishnu , This is on the other side of Mohini idol. One can see this beautiful carving with minute details. Mohini and vishnu idols ate the finest specimen of sculpture.
LORD VISHNU 
Along the outer walls of the main temple, you will see rows of carvings of various animals, scenes of Mahabharata and Ramayana and dancing damsels
OUTER WALL : CARVING OF DIFFERENT STORIES 
Each carving is perfect and has a certain symbolism. The elephants at the base reflect strength, while the lions above them were a symbol of courage. Right above them you will see rows of horses, which I suppose, stood for speed. As per the guide, there are around 600 plus elephants carved along the outer row.  Amazing, right?
There are many more important sculptures in the sprawling complex of the Temple. Some of them are the Gajasurasamhara (sculpture of Lord Shiva), a sculpture of Ravana, Durga killing Mahishasura and many others. There are multiple mini shrines too at the entrance of the temple. Another curious feature of these many sculptures is the signatures left by the artists of the period, giving us more insight into the lives and culture during the Hoysala period.
Narasimha's angry looking face,sharp tongue ,popped up eye ball and furious lord wearing demon's small intestine as garland : UGRA NARASIMHA - Fourth incarnation of Vishnu
Narasimha killing the Demon HiranyaKashipu on his lap by tearing demon's abdomen with his sharp nales takes one to the land of Indian philosophy and mythology.
DIFFERENT TEMPLE STYLES 


Siddhi Vinayaka 
The carving of standing Bramha holding chanting beads and water pot in his hans is seen on the outer wall of the temple.
One can see bell hanging right above his head with the support of 14 interlocked chain rope.Bramha,  is a prominent Indian God called Creator of the Universe is carved beautifully with minute details. He is the creator of material and spiritual Universe.
He is holding a 14 interlocked chain rope which represent 14 universes namely Satya Loka, Tapa Loka , Jana Loka, Mahar Loka,Svar Loka,Bhuvar Loka,Bhoo Loka, Atala Loka , Vitala Loka,Sutala Loka,Talatala Loka,Mahatala Loka,Rasatala Loka and Patala Loka.  These 14 Universes are created by Bramha.

BRAMHA : Creater of the Universe
WOW! Beautiful Carved Pillar with small temples for different Gods This is called Narsimha Pillar.It is popularly known as Index pillar.as it bears the miniature carvings of all the important carvings of the temple outer wall. It is very unique. This pole was rotatable in axis due to its unique ball bearing system..It is damaged now.  This entire pole is filled with carvings of many Gods and Goddesses in small blocs except one which indicates that God has many different forms and incarnations at the same tome God has no shape , sizeand the divine spirit is said to be formless. This is Nirgunkara roopa or Formless quality God.


When you just look up and spot the ornate circle in the ceiling, you say WOW! If due to the lack of light, you are  not able to capture the center well you can see the centre spot, and you will notice  a prominent carving of Lord Vishnu as Narasimha right in the center. 
LORD VISHNU